Several weeks ago I took a Boulder County Parks and Open Space Agricultural Tour. I’ve long been a huge fan of Boulder County’s Open Space (I love living in a town surrounded by farm land, hiking trails, and open fields), so I was excited to go on one of these tours. They do several each year, all featuring a great talk while the bus travels between farm destinations, as well as two or three visits to local farms. Unfortunately on this particular Saturday, it was the type of rainy day we hoped for all summer, but which naturally showed up instead during our fall tour.

Sugar Beet Field in Boulder, CO

Sugar Beet Field in Boulder, CO

Based on a comprehensive plan developed in the 70’s to conserve Open Space, the philosophy of the Boulder County Parks and Open Space is that urban growth should center around cities, and rural areas should be preserved. Open Space is defined as land intentionally left free from development, such as farms, wildlife habitats, recreational areas, natural landscapes, or cultural areas with historical buildings. For years after the initial plan, there was little money to preserve much land (two tax revenue initiatives were defeated in the late 70’s and 80’s). But beginning in 1993, four tax initiatives were passed that have allowed the county to accumulate 100,000 acres of open space, fairly evenly split between the plains and the foothills/mountains. Of the total acreage, 65,000 has been purchased outright, and the remaining 35,000 was purchased as conservation easements, which means the surface land itself is not purchased, but there are restrictions imposed on future development.

One of the great things about Boulder County Open Space is that parts of the land is leased to farmers who raise much of the local produce and livestock in the area. There are between 85 and 90 farms that lease from Boulder County Open Space, with the leases ranging from smaller farms of 2 to 5 acres, to those as large as 1000 acres. Leases are either cash leases, or cropshare leases in which the farmer and the county split a share of both farming costs and profit. The yearly lease revenue of about 1.5 million goes towards irrigation costs as well as back into the farms.

In this area of the country we basically have a desert climate. But crops like corn, sugar beets and other vegetables take roughly 2-3 feet of water per year. Since the average annual moisture in Boulder county is between 11 and 13 inches, there’s quite a deficit. The irrigation water that makes growing crops possible comes from snowmelt that flows into ditches which run through Boulder County. The first Boulder County ditch systems were constructed and used in the late 1850s, which is pretty cool.

The Boulder County Open Space department encourages the ‘local food loop’ concept, and strives to make it possible for smaller farmers to have the opportunity to lease some of the land. They’re also supportive of organic farming methods, and have met their goal of having 10% of the croplands on Open Space being farmed using organic methods. (This is about 15 times the national average of 0.7% of public cropland that is farmed organically).

So obviously, there’s still a significant amount of cropland that is traditionally farmed, and in fact some of those crops include genetically modified ones. Personally, when possible, I choose not to eat GMO foods, based on the fact that it just seems healthier to eat more naturally developed food. But as with most things, there are shades of gray in the arguments against GMO vegetables. This report on the Boulder County Board of Commissioners’ adoption of the cropland policy  has some good information on the open space position. Many local farmers have been using conventional methods for years, struggle to make ends meet as it is, and have found many benefits in using GMO seeds, such as drastic reductions in toxic pesticides required, reduced carbon footprint as a result of fewer passes for the application of pesticides, and a reduction of soil erosion as better tilling processes are possible. The sugar beet farmer that we visited sends the vast majority of his crops to locations that are well within the 100 mile radius that many locavores espouse. So I had to ask myself – how does a GMO sugar beet crop that travels 97 miles to Fort Morgan for processing stack up against organic peppers grown in Mexico and transported over 550 miles to Boulder? Not as simple as you would think it would be. While I wish that all the surrounding farming could be non-GMO (organic would be even better), and I buy organic whenever I can, I do respect the position of Boulder County Open Space in continuing to support farmers who have been farming the land for generations, while encouraging a gradual move toward more organic farming. I believe that any progress is better than no progress, and as consumers become more knowledgeable and voice their desire to have more organic foods, things will continue to move in that direction.

Something I found out at the sugar beet farm – sugar beets are amazingly edible in their raw form (at least in small quantities – not sure how it would work in bulk). I asked what they tasted like, and the farmer hacked off some pieces for us. It’s like eating sugary jicama, and I couldn’t help wondering if it would be free on the Weight Watchers point system since it’s a vegetable! We were supposed to see the beets being harvested, but since the entire field was mucky, we ended up just seeing the equipment and hearing the farmers speak.

Sugar Beets - Boulder County, CO

Sugar Beets – Boulder County, CO

Our final stop was The Rocky Mountain Pumpkin Ranch in Longmont, owned by the farmer who operates Full Circle Farms, the largest organic farm in Boulder County. Unfortunately, since it was so rainy, we didn’t get to visit any of the farm land, but we did get to hear a brief talk about their organic farming. I can vouch for their organic produce, which I have purchased both at Whole Foods and Alfalfa’s.

Due to the rain the only good pictures I got were at the sugar beet farm. I think it would be great to go on another one of these tours on a nicer day when I could see more of a variety of farming on Open Space, and I encourage anyone interested in finding out more about local food to join one next year.

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I’ve got several pictures I’ve wanted to use for a while, but which just haven’t fit with anything. So this post is just going to be food pictures. If you’ve read my blog for a while, you know that I love brightly colored ingredients and dishes. The more vibrant, the better! So color is the main feature of all of these photos.

Heirloom Tomatoes

Awesome picture I accidentally took of heirloom tomatoes (because if there’s one thing about my photography skills that’s consistent, it’s inconsistency (with a slight leaning toward blurriness))

More Heirloom Tomatoes

More heirloom tomatoes (because seriously, how cool are these colors?)

Colorful Carrots

Tell me again why we eat mainly orange carrots when this wonderful variety exists?

Pomegranate Arils

I love pomegranate arils – they’re like jewels! If they weren’t so darned tasty I would just stare at them.

Yellow Beets

I’m still hypnotized by beets. I love the bullseye pattern, and how cool is bright yellow surrounded by red-orange?

Heirloom Pumpkin

I thought the lacy grey-brown with the bright orange peeking through on this heirloom pumpkin was very cool. (And it was a tasty one, too!)

Gorgeous Pasta Dish with Green Garbanzos - in which the Garbanzos were totally overwhelmed by the Chipotle Lime Pasta

Gorgeous pasta dish with green garbanzos (in which the taste of the garbanzos was totally overwhelmed by the Chipotle Lime Pasta (which is especially tragic considering how long it takes to prepare green garbanzos!))

Gorgeous Sushi from Sushi Yoshi in Superior

Colorful (and Beyond Delicous) Sushi from Sushi Yoshi in Superior

A Farm Dinner with Pizza!

September 21, 2012

I love farm dinners, but they tend to be fairly expensive, so we usually limit ourselves to one or two a year. But when I happened upon a link to a farm dinner at Lone Hawk Farm featuring pizza baked in a portable wood-fired grill for just $40 a person, it seemed like a no-brainer – I immediately sent an email asking if there was still space.

Lone Hawk Farm is west of Longmont in a very picturesque landscape. Produce is sold at the farm, and space is available for weddings and special events, as well as horse boarding. It was in the 50s and rainy the evening of the dinner, but the hosts were gracious enough to let us dine in their home in a wonderful room with picture windows on two sides. The area is very secluded, so it feels quite pastoral (and the peacocks wandering by the window at one point certainly reinforced that feeling).

Crust Mobile's Wood Fired Oven

Crust Mobile’s Wood Fired Oven

The food was orchestrated by Crust Mobile, based in Nederland (but portable!), using several ingredients from Lone Hawk Farm and other local providers. A few of us headed out to look at the oven and talk with Dawn, the owner. The oven is a gorgeous clay creation from France, covered in copper from an artist in Maine. The temperature used for making pizza is around 750 to 800 degrees, and they fire it using hardwood, which burns hotter, cleaner, and for a longer time than softer woods. Dawn told us that most of the wood they would be using during the evening (which was a pretty small pile) was fruit wood, obtained from a friend who is a tree trimmer. (Great reuse!) They use Colorado milled organic flour, pepperoni and sausage made in Denver, and local produce when it’s in season.

Crust Mobile's Wood Fired Oven

Close-up of Crust Mobile’s Wood Fired Oven

After we headed back in, a stream of fairly substantial food appeared at regular intervals through the back door. We started with a nice bowl of tomato soup finished with olive oil – perfect for a cool, rainy evening.

Tomato Soup finished with Olive Oil

Tomato Soup finished with Olive Oil

Following that we had a salad of field greens with local cantaloupe, walnuts and orange thyme vinaigrette.

Farm Fresh Green Salad

Farm Fresh Green Salad

And then began the pizza courses. I think the unanimous favorite at the table was the Apple Bacon pizza with mascarpone, bacon, Lone Hawk Farm apples, blue cheese and maple syrup drizzle. The sweet mascarpone and maple syrup, the tart apples, umami blue cheese and salty bacon were phenomenal together.

Unbelievably Amazing Bacon, Marscapone, Blue Cheese and Apple Pizza

Unbelievably Amazing Apple Bacon Pizza with Mascarpone, Bacon, Lone Hawk Farm Apples, Blue Cheese and Maple Syrup Drizzle

Next was Adult Pepperoni: Il Mondo Vecchio hand-cut pepperoni, Lone Hawk Farm peppers, crushed tomatoes (canned at Lone Hawk), and mozzarella. Since it had peppers and pepperoni I started referring to it as pepper2oni (that was your bad math joke for today, and I apologize profusely (but I’m going to leave it in anyhow)).

Pepperoni & Pepper Pizza

Il Mondo Vecchio Pepperoni & Pepper Pizza

Third up was Squash-Room: Hazel Dell crimini mushrooms, herbed ricotta, Lone Hawk Farm squash, roasted garlic, and fresh thyme.

Squash, Mushroom, Mozzarella, Ricotta and Pumpkin Seed Pizza

Squash, Mushroom, Mozzarella, and Ricotta Pizza

And the final pizza was a simple, classic, and totally delicious Margherita with crushed tomatoes and basil from Lone Hawk Farm, and fresh mozzarella.

Margherita Pizza

Margherita Pizza

Then, as if all of the wonderful pizza wasn’t enough food (there were second pieces had by all (thirds by some)), we finished with an outstanding apple cake made with Lone Hawk Farm apples.

Apple Cake

Apple Cake

If you’ve wanted to try a farm dinner, but have been put off by the steep prices, I highly recommend checking out a dinner at Lone Hawk Farm!

Sometimes I’m just not up for the Farmers’ Market on Saturday morning – either it’s too hot (I start to wilt when it’s over 82 degrees without a breeze), I don’t feel like being in a crowd, or I was incredibly lazy and didn’t get going until early afternoon. But never fear – there are lots of farm stands around the area where you can stock up on a variety of vegetables for the week. Many farm stands are open seven days a week, from morning to early evening, so you can stop by on the way home from work, or head out on the weekend.

Peaches, Peppers, Potatoes, Eggplant and Green Beans at Munson Farms

Overall, I think my favorite farm stand is the one at Munson Farms. Located at 75th and Valmont, there is ample parking, a great selection of produce, reasonable prices, and always friendly service. I had the opportunity to talk to Mike Munson the last time I was there, and got the chance to ask a few questions about the farm. It really does make you feel connected to the area when you meet the people who grow your food.

Tomatoes Galore! – Munson Farms

Munson Farms specializes in sweet corn in the summer, and squash in the fall. But you can also pick up some tomatoes and basil for a caprese salad, bell peppers, onions, potatoes, and lots of other items.

A small preview of Munson Farms’ fall squash supply

I had to include the following picture, since it’s one of my favorites. I took this last fall at Munson Farms – it’s a great display of each type of winter squash they grew last year. If you’re in the market for pumpkins or winter squash, Munson Farms is THE place to go.

Squash Display at Munson Farms

Squash Display at Munson Farms

One of my favorite farms at the Boulder Farmers’ Market is Red Wagon Organic Farm. They have quite a large farm stand at 95th & Arapahoe in Lafayette, with a pretty vast selection of produce.

Onions, Apples and Pears at the Red Wagon Organic Farm Stand

As we found out at a farm dinner at Red Wagon a couple of years ago, they like to try different varieties to explore which ones taste best and grow well locally. This makes checking them out at either the Farmers’ Market or their farm stand a rewarding endeavor.

Summer Squash and Onions at the Red Wagon Farm Stand

The Red Wagon Farm Stand also has produce from other growers in Colorado, which reinforces the cooperation and respect among local farmers I’ve noticed when I’ve heard them talk about their businesses.

Beets, Peppers, and More Peppers at the Red Wagon Farm Stand

The are lots of other farm stands to check out in the area in addition to Munson’s and Red Wagon:

Last week Niwot restaurant Colterra graciously (and deliciously) hosted several local food bloggers other food media people for a talk about the restaurant, as well as several delectable small plates. Colterra has long been a favorite of mine in Boulder County, but gained even more esteem points after I had the chance to find out a bit more about what goes on behind the scenes.

Executive Chef Michael Drazsnzak spoke extensively about the philosophy espoused by both Colterra and Salt (both created by chef Bradford Heap), their relationship with local farmers, and the wonderful dishes that were provided for us to sample. The restaurants strive to provide food that is local, healthy, sustainable, and promotes humane animal husbandry. Recycling and composting are both near and dear to my heart, so more points were scored with me when I heard that Colterra has only one trash can-sized container for landfill, but multiple containers for recycling and composting.

I’m always thrilled to see restaurants sourcing their food from local farms and ranches, and Colterra definitely makes this a high priority. They acquire produce and meat from Full Circle Farms, Dooley Farms, Munson Farms and Long Family Farms (to name just a few), as well as from the small garden spread around the Colterra property. They have recently partnered up with a farmer to raise eight Berkshire hogs, contributing edible compost from the restaurant for feed. I love that! Another thing that impressed me was the fact that they visit the farmers quite frequently, allowing them to get an idea of what is growing and will be ready to harvest soon, so that they can plan new menu items.

The Patio at Colterra in Niwot, CO

On the Patio at Colterra in Niwot, CO

Now on to the lovely small plates we sampled. The first was Pork Rillettes (a dish similar to pâté) and quick pickled cucumbers with a bit of mint, on toasted bread and a bed of lettuce. The Rillettes was wonderfully rich, and perfectly complemented by the light, fresh pickled cucumbers. (As Chef Drazsnzak described the process of making the Rillettes, talking about the addition of butter, bacon fat, and extra-virgin olive oil, I had a quick mental image of my posterior expanding, but that didn’t stop me from finishing both pieces! All part of splurging one night a week, and eating healthier at home the rest of the week.)

Salad with Pork Rillettes and Quick Pickled Cucumbers on Toast

Salad with Pork Rillettes and Quick Pickled Cucumbers on Toast (You can barely see the Rillettes, but trust me, it was delicious!)

As good as the Rillettes was, the second course was actually my favorite. This was a salad made of local organic tomatoes and fried bread with sweet corn and green beans. Add to that some olive oil, wonderfully vibrant aged balsamic and a bit of basil, and I was really blown away by the clean, fresh, gorgeous flavors. This kind of dish really underscores how locally harvested produce can elevate food to new levels, because it’s packed with so much more flavor.

Tomato and Fried Bread Salad with Sweet Corn and Green Beans

Tomato and Fried Bread Salad with Sweet Corn and Green Beans

The final dish was a melon salad with prosciutto, mint, and peashoots. The cantaloupe and honeydew were local, and the prosciutto even counted as more local than most, hailing from La Quercia, makers of artisan cured meats, in Iowa. La Quercia (translated as ‘The Oak’) was the first to bring the tradition of acorn-fed pigs to the United States with their ‘Acorn Edition’ meats. Completely delicious!

Melon Salad with Prosciutto

Melon Salad with Prosciutto

In addition to providing wonderful food at both Colterra and Salt, the Bradford Heap Restaurants brand also does catering, as well as offering cooking classes. I think I may just have to attend one of their classes in the near future!

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